Mirror Visions & Yohji Yamamoto
While there were pl-enty of exhibitions to be seen at the recent Festival Hyères (check out all of them on Fashion Snoops), I had two favorites.
First comes from Dutch artist Anouk Kruithof. Artist as in WHAT you may ask? Well that’s a little complicated, and it’s also what defines her. The “medium” is always the starting point for Anouk’s projects which also rely on an interaction with the surroundings or people involved. While the photos fail in comparison to the experience, look first and then I’ll explain.
Anouk’s exhibition, titled “I’ve taken too many photos/ I’ve never taken a photo” was set in the historic Tour des Templiers in Hyères old city center. The location was also utilized for an impressive photography exhibit when I attended the festival in 2010. This time around, upon entering, all guests were given a square mirror plate, which was used to view the many photographs suspended from above without looking up. The photos themselves, in an assortment of sizes, featured a variety of subjects captured over 10 years from portraits to landscapes to objects. There was no particular order to view the exhibit and each “viewing” of the photos varied depending on positioning of your own mirror. Holding the mirror from your chest and then drawing it up to your face gave a feeling of movement, almost like inverting the ceiling and floor and causing momentarily confusion.. an amazing experience that was truly original!
The next subject requires no introduction.. Mr. Yohji Yamamoto, who served as this year’s president of the fashion jury during the festival. As always, the president of the jury features an exhibit set in the villa Noailles pool room.
Displays were set up inside the empty glass-enclosed pool which viewers walked upon. Set in a luminous room, florescent lights and shadows made it difficult to see the exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship of the all-black collection, while the setting seemed to suit Yamamoto quite well – perhaps by appealing to his broad fan base. Throughout the festival, the designer was spotted at the fashion shows, in conferences and in the final photo above, at a book signing of his autobiography My Dear Bomb, which now resides on my coffee table.
TREND CONVERSATIONS at the MET’s Costume Institute Gala
As you’ve more than likely already heard, the annual Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala was held last Monday night in New York City. As per usual, the grand Oscars of Fashion is co-chaired by Anna Wintour, who was accompanied this year by Miuccia Prada and Carey Mulligan in honor of the exhibition “Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations.”
WHAT YOU MAY NOT KNOW is what trends marched down the red carpet. (Or maybe you do, since live coverage was live-streamed for the first time on Amazon.com, vogue.com and metmuseum.org.) Anyhow, dare I say that the Costume Institute Gala is more fun than say, The Oscars, probably because here we’re looking at fashion people (not just celebs) and if there is ever a time to take a risk, it’s here, amongst other fashion people. Although in the end no matter who you wear, you want to be on Anna’s good side, and that’s no easy feat.
One sure way to do it is by dressing in the designer that the exhibit honors. And in this case.. the devil wears Prada (couldn’t resist).
Since the exhibit is equally dedicated to Schiaparelli, apparently Anna encouraged guests to embrace Schiaparelli’s trademark pink. After that it was up to interpretation from vintage elements of pink to paring it with denim (like only Jenna Lyons can) and pink hair a la Chris Benz.
Unfortunately for Schiaparelli, ORANGE is still having a moment for Spring 12. And so it is here, the number one fashion color at the Costume Institute Gala.
Also indicative of the Spring 12, BOLD PRINTS liven up the red carpet in refreshingly season-appropriate looks.
METALLICA never looked so good. Shimmering silver and gold embellishment dazzled as THE number one trend of the evening, with Karolina Kurkova standing out in a backless Rachel Zoe number. 
Leave it to the fashion crowd to take on one of Spring’s most buzzed about details, PEPLUMS!
Sheer maxis are very much on trend and look every last bit glamorous on the red carpet. See-through skirts offer a more forward look than slits.
More than a handful of guests dresses in jewel tones from emerald to sapphire. Constance Jablonski in two-tone Haider Ackermann wore it best.
If jewel tones have you thinking Fall, these Renaissance Women take it a step further in lavish embroideries which were indicative of the most recent runway collections.
Alas, The Individualist. From lavish frills to mismatched, shirt layering to barely there.. anything goes!
If all else fails, black is an eternal crowd-pleaser and these frocks are anything but ordinary.
If You Had One Look to Design for Chloé…
What might it look like? That’s the question that the 10 designers at Festival Hyères were challenged with for a shot at the Chloé Prize. The image above is winner Steven Tai‘s design for Chloé, recepient of the 15,000€ award.
Chloé, an official sponsor of the festival, held the contest for the first time 2 weeks ago, and plans to continue it for the next three years. The idea was to create a look in “the spirit of the Chloé tradition, demonstrating expertise in luxury ready-to-wear combined with a naturally elegant, spontaneous and modern feminine style.”
You’ve got to admit that this is not your average contest. First consider that the line-up of designers at Festival Hyères is not your usual grade of student designers. A selection of them have already worked at the likes of Raf Simons, Stella McCartney and Viktor & Rolf, the latter who were actually discovered at Festival Hyères years ago. Further to that point, emerging designers rarely embark upon their own collections successfully at first, and I’m sure more than a few would entertain the idea of assisting at Chloé or any other major fashion house in the coming years.
The idea is a brilliant for Chloé as well, in that it is a highly visible contest with a sizable award on a recognized platform. The added bonus here is that if you were Chloé hiring a design assistant, you’re undoubtedly going through portfolio after portfolio but rarely have the opportunity to see a designer’s vision of your brand beforehand. What is also interesting here is to look at the complete collections of each designer and then at their 1 look for Chloé and compare. There are some true talents in the group, including menswear designer Jasmina Barshovi who incorporated accessories and even knitwear designer Ragne Kikas who incorporated a very Chloé-esque color palette.
Should Clare Waight Keller desire a new assistant, seeing the visions of 10 different designers would certainly be of interest. In fact I wouldn’t be too surprised if Steven Tai got more than a check out of the deal..
NEED TO KNOW Designers from Festival Hyères
This past weekend I had the amazing opportunity to attend Festival Hyères for my second time. In case you’re not familiar, it’s a ma-jor international fashion and photography competition that happens annually in the town of Hyères on the French Riviera (I finally escaped the rain in Paris). But an end-of-the-year student show this is not. Unless your school discovered Viktor & Rolf, Gaspard Yurkievich, Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Henrik Vibskov (to name a few) or had Yohji Yamamoto as the President of the Jury (for real). There’s a lot to talk about but right now I’m going to focus on the 10 designers featured in the fashion competition. The photos featured below are all my own and were taken at the fashion show and showroom presentations. Look for more coming soon on Fashion Snoops!
Lucas Sponchiado
Lucas Sponchiado graduated in 2011 from the École supérieure de La Cambre in Brussels and has worked with Balmain and Gaspard Yurkievitch. His collection “Out of Vacuum” is very much about metamorphosis in the sense that inspiration is taken from traditional English references and colonial India. The sheer lingerie aspect which appears on eveningwear happened entirely organically. Intricate embellishment on items like leggings make certain looks appear warrior-like while intricate pieced construction and cutouts appear on jackets. **Lucas Sponchiado is the recipient of the Public Prize from Palais du Tokyo and Villa Noailles.
Narelle Dore www.narelledore.com
Astrallian designer Narelle Dore lives in Antwerp and graduated in 2008 from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Her collection “Women at Sitting Rock” emulates a synthesis between nature, crystals and feminine energy. Her mostly handmade garments feature woven threads, crocheted lace and macrame which are only enhansed by a beautiful color palette reflected throughout the collection and even on colored hair extensions.
Daniel Hurlin www.danielhurlin.com
Daniel Hurlin is completing his studies at the Institut Français de la Mode in Paris, and has already worked in diverse environments from Raf Simons to supermarket Tesco. Inspiration for “Perfect Blue Tamara” comes from the painter Tamara de Lempicka and the animated film Perfect Blue from Satoshi Kon. Classic menswear silhouettes are deconstructed with daring cuts (often on the backside) while highly charged prints take center stage, often as fragmented screens.
Paula Selby Avellaneda www.paulaselbyavellaneda.com
Argentinian designer Paula Selby Avellaneda is a graduate from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and Institut Français de la Mode in Paris. The concept for her collection is based on the ability to control seasons and a resulting iceberg in Mongolia. Performance materials take center stage including plastic, rubber, quick-dry and reflective lycra. Couture-like quality remains alongside this futuristic collection with highlights including scale-like sequins and a holographic dress.
Jasmina Barshovi
Jasmina Barshovi is a graduate from HEAD in Geneva, Switzerland. Her collection “The Birds are silent” features a new sensual side to menswear, often involving transparency in the form of cotton voile and silk muslin. Shadowy prints in grey also add to the lightness of the collection. Active elements are also apparent from modified sweatshirts and tanks to must-have parkas.
Maxime Rappaz www.maximerappaz.com
Maxime Rappaz graduated in 2011 from HEAD in Geneva, Switzerland. This year he is currently working for Roberto Cavalli in Florence. His collection is a study in purity and takes inspiration from his own photographic research which identifies lines and monochrome surfaces. Minimalist neutral colors are enlivened with shocking neons and transparency while boxy accessories add a dose of irony on the runway. Up close, the garments feature intricate folds.
Ragne Kikas www.ragnekikas.com
Estonian designer Ragne Kikas is in the process of completing her university education in Hamburg. Her collection “Dress Code Defensive” takes inspiration from 15th and 16th Century armor which is translated into knitted garments. Set to an almost all-black palette, the garments are equally as striking on the body as they are close up. Intricate items are smocked, pleated and patterned bringing a truly new dimension to knitwear. **Ragne Kikas is the recipient of the Premiere Vision prize and the public prize from the city of Hyères.
Siiri Raasakka, Tiia Siren and Elina Laitinen
Siiri Raasakka, Tiia Siren and Elina Laitinen make up the design trio from Finland who met at Aalto
University of Art and Design in Helsinki. The vision for their men’s collection comes from a tribe of “urban nomads, living in a utopian society of the future”. What results is an assortment of menswear destined for a rave in acid colors and asymmetrical shapes with elements of folk craft fringe and glowsticks. All prints are produced in-house. **Siiri Raasakka, Tiia Siren and Elina Laitinen are the recipients of the Grand Prize of the Jury.
Steven Tai www.steventai.co.uk
Canadian Steven Tai recently completed his studies at Central Saint Martin, and has already worked as an assistant for Bless, Viktor & Rolf and Stella McCartney. His collection is destined for bookworms with classical elements including button-down blouses met with exaggerated round waistbands that appear as sculptural appendages. Master craftsmanship comes through best with piles of fabrics that emulate stacks of books. **Steven Tai is the recipient of the Chloe Prize (more on that later)!
Kim Choong-Wilkins
Kim Choong-Wilkins is a graduate of the Royal College of Art and resides in London. His menswear collection “Dystopia” is defined as the opposite of Utopia and features a twist on classics, such as argyle patterns reinterpreted in metallic studs. Science fiction reference also makes an appearance with plastic overlays and chainmail knits.
Into the Darkness: Fall 12/13 Runway Edition
Every major runway season I like to give a personal outlook on the major theme movements for the season. Typically that means discussing very different influences in terms of importance, however for Fall 12/13, I can not help but feel that we’re on the brink of darkness in every which way. Sure there are a total of 27 themes split between contemporary and junior which you could explore on FASHIONSNOOPS.COM, but the big overarching do-not-miss message is ultimately very, very dark, expressed in 4 different themes.
APOCALYPTIC WARRIORS is perhaps the harshest message of all featured at Gareth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens. If this sounds familiar, it wasn’t too long ago – Fall 09/10 runway to be exact – that a similar reference called Road Warrior was introduced, in the midst of a recession. It seems that we’re not entirely finished with that doomsday combatant look yet, and this season the key takeaways are leather pants and armor-like construction (almost emulating breast plates) on outerwear.
DARK ROMANCE, as I mentioned before, is perhaps the most commercial (and feminine) vision of darkness. Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Givenchy and Giles all take on a dark jewel toned color palette enhanced by luxe materials like velvet and lace. Capes and transparency are other highlights.
GLAM GOTH is the youngest (read: junior) expression of all, featured at Versace and John Richmond. The sleek look consists of a metropolitan attitude as well as more leather, religious elements and embellishment.
Finally, DARK RIDER continues to explore the darkness in a way we haven’t seen before.. equestrian. In a somewhat surprising move (and further proving the reach of the dark side), Givenchy features common jodhpurs, riding jackets and capelets destined for horseback riding by moonlight.
Patience and a Friend Got Me Marni at H&M
I just returned from H&M with a Marni at H&M bag in hand. Apparently people in London lined up at 9pm LAST NIGHT. A bit extreme if you ask me.. although I would have done the same if I wasn’t on a plane for the Lanvin collab last year. ANYWAY, here in Paris, designer collaborations aren’t as prone to cat fights as those in New York or London and people don’t queue up quite as early. There also isn’t a bracelet system and the time to shop isn’t that closely monitored. I was actually debating whether or not to go, but after having a dream – yes I said dream – of getting the brocade top, I had to go. I got there at 10 minutes before 10am (no, the stores didn’t open early in Paris and yes I probably should have gotten there earlier) and waited a very cold 2 hours outside the rue de Rennes store in my neighborhood, all the while texting my friend who was at another location (Rivoli). Well she got in first and grabbed the accessories for herself (yes EVERYONE wanted the accessories) and also was able to grab the brocade top for me! I stuck it out in my line outside which seemingly took forever and was one of the last groups let in. All the clothes were still there upon entering but NO accessories. I grabbed my 2nd favorite – the leather top, tried it on and paid in a matter of 10 minutes, at which point there wasn’t even 1 hanger left on the rack. Good luck Marni fans in New York and Los Angeles!
Dark Romance #MFW
The leading theme cast over the Milan collections was that of a DARK ROMANCE. Gucci did it best, with a mysterious collection comprised of gem colors like emerald and plum set to rich jacquard and velvet. Capes, peasant blouses and maxi silhouettes were all highlights.
Also related, Dolce & Gabbana featured an Italian RENAISSANCE collection which spoke to a classical romance covered in lavish gold embroidery.
Cape Town #MFW
Two seasons ago, forward designers in Paris introduced CAPES to the market. While on the runway long capes are most dramatic, shorter styles and caplets are also in store for Fall 12 as a forerunner in outerwear assortments.
Some Like It Luxe #MFW
In a very rich Fall 12 Milan runway season, LUXE MATERIALS are key. Velvet, lace and brocade are all highlights.
Wooly Mammoths #MFW
FUR is still a larger-than-life trend on the Fall 12 runways. But the question on everyone’s mind is.. with this winter being so warm, is it practical to invest (as a buyer or customer) in giant fur coats? Perhaps capes are a more realistic option.. more on that soon!